Cinque Stagioni & Spigolo Sud (Arco)

After the success of the previous day we set off for another three star multipitch route, but this time one within walking distance of the campsite. This route was significantly harder than the previous day’s route, however it was also advertised as a well bolted sport route. The route was an 8 pitch route with sections of UIAA 6, along with an A0 pitch in the middle.

As we arrived at the climb there couldn’t have been a starker contrast with the previous day, as there was nobody else around at all. As I set off up the first pitch, which wasn’t difficult, I was slightly alarmed at the lack of gear and hoping that this was just inconsiderate bolting of easier pitches, rather than the definition of a well bolted climb!

Thankfully as we moved towards harder climbing on the subsequent pitches the bolting significantly improved. The climbing was really enjoyable as it was a mixture of slab climbing and steeper feature based climbing up excellent limestone. As we made our way higher we could see the daunting aid pitch towering steeply above us, which became more intimidating as we moved closer.

The initial wall climbing at UIAA 6 up to the aid section as really enjoyable, however I cannot say the same about the aid pitch! It was very strenuous, felt very insecure and I was certainly glad to get to the top of it.

Thankfully the climbing after the aid pitch returned to being really enjoyable, however my arms were certainly feeling the strain of the aid pitch on the final crux pitch! We were soon at the top of Cinque Stagioni, where there was a nice ledge which enabled us to have lunch looking over Arco castle and towards Lake Garda. There were then just a few pitches to get to the top with exposed traversing, delicate slab climbing and one final intimidating rockover to finish.

The walk down was really interesting, as we first had to walk up to the summit, which was over a really strange limestone pavement. The descent itself was fairly straightforward and didn’t take us too long, so we were soon back in Arco where we enjoyed a celebratory beer before walking back to the campsite.