Towards the end of January it got cold again and this time just for long enough for some routes in the Brecon Beacons to come into condition which was brilliant as it meant I had lots of ice climbing within 2hrs drive from my house, during a week I managed 3 days out and discovered just how much ice can vary in difficulty depending on conditions.
Soon February came around and began a very intense period of trips to Scotland, between the 9th Feb and 1st April I only spent two weekends in Bristol, the rest were spent climbing in Scotland! My first trip was a weeks trip with friends from University where easy routes were the name of the game, but it was a brilliant week, with some good weather, plenty of snow and fantastic company. During this week plans had to be changed a few times at last minute due to strong winds shutting the Aonach Mor gondola, however we made the most of these days and I managed the route I really wanted to complete which was the Aonach Eagach Ridge with Hannah and Ruth.
The day after I left Scotland there was a mini thaw followed by two weeks of completely Alpine weather, where it was cold & sunny with low winds. Due to this weather I made a last minute decision to head up for a three day weekend. Due to not wanting to make the walk up to the CIC hut with packs every day we decided it would be a good idea to camp at the base of the north face, this turned out to be a great decision as the cliffs of the Ben were unsurprisingly busy. Over these three days we climbed three classic routes in conditions which could not be improved and it was brilliant. I don’t think I will ever better these three days for a period of winter climbing in Scotland due to the combination of classic routes, great weather and great ice.
After getting back from Scotland at 3:30am on Monday morning, it was back to work for a grand total of three days before heading back to Glen Coe with the Avon-Mountaineering Club for their annual Scottish trip. During this trip I finally made it up Aonach Mor and climbed yet more classic lines on Ben Nevis, however this time we had more “Scottish Weather”. It was during this trip I climbed my favourite ice climb which was Minus Two gully which was absolutely brilliant due to being sustained & varied with an interesting topout along North East Buttress.
After a week in Scotland, followed by two weekends on the trot I was quite content with not heading back up to Scotland again for the winter. However as this winter just kept giving with the fantastic conditions remaining, after one weekend in Bristol the addiction took hold and it was back up to Scotland. This trip ended up being a bit more eventful than the others with my having a fall off Minus One gully and us retreating having been firmly chastised, however we made the most of the day and finished up Vanishing Gully.
With the cold weather continuing over the easter weekend my plans of rock climbing in Cornwall evolved into a long weekend climbing in Scotland. However, after a few emails with Mike Lates from Skye Guides I discovered that the Cuillin Ridge was in full on winter conditions. Due to the forecast to remain properly cold but sunny we decided to head up and have an attempt on a winter traverse on the Cuillin Ridge. After three days we completed the ridge, it was a fantastic three days, the best mountaineering route I have ever done and I cannot think of a better way to end my first proper winter season in Scotland than by having completed one of the most sought after routes in the country.
I know the fat lady hasn’t sung yet and in Scotland and there is still ice everywhere, however with it warming up down south my attention is turning to rock climbing and I can’t help but feel anything else this season will be disappointing after the Cuillin Ridge. I have no idea how I will ever better this winter in Scotland, there is still plenty left that I want to climb but will I ever manage this many classic routes in perfect conditions again in Scotland? I have started looking at routes in the Alps and Alaska for winters to come so who knows what will happen next year.
impressed mate, some amazing photos. If only I liked the white stuff. oh well.